Visit to Sultanahmet 20 Feb 2011

Liz and I caught the ferry from Kadikoy, across the Bosphorous, this time, to Eminonu on the European side. Our purpose was to show me the location of some of Istanbul's spectacular landmarks for me to go back later and fully explore. The day was overcast and freezing. I should have worn the lovely Ralph Lauren beanie and scarf Richard brought me back from Canada. It certainly has been put to good use since. My apartment is SO warm that its definitely a false sense of security and when one gets outside, down by the water, the windyy chill certainly strikes, not dissimilar to playground duty at KWS in the middle of July.

Once arriving at Eminonu ferry stop, we walked through the subway to the tram station. The subway is absolutely full of merchants selling every type of paraphenlia you can imagine, particularly clothing, trinkets, bags etc.By the afternoon you can hardly walk through the subway because of the crowds, AND IT IS ONLY WINTER! Summer is apparently a night mare, so I will be doing my Istanbul sightseeing in the cooler monts as the queues into the more popular attractions are horrendous, so they say.

We caught the tram up through the very narrow streets to stop off at the Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya) (huge mosque which is now only used as a magnificent museum) and the Topkapi Palace.

The Haghia Sophia is truly an awe- inspiring architectural masterpiece. It is over 1400 years old,CAN YOU IMAGINE THAT!!! and I can't wait to spend a day exploring it. It will certainly take more than a day to do it justice I am sure. It was "deigned as an earthly mirror of the heavens, the interior of the Haghia Sophia succeeds in imparting a truly celestial feel". Can't wait.
We then walked through the first courtyard of the Topkapi Palace. This is not just one Huge building as one would imagine a palace, but a series of  stone pavilions built by Mehmet 11 between 1459 and 1465. We only went to the main gate as I will need at least another day to completely explore the Palace. Can't wait to see the huge kitchens although I believed that parrt is being renovated, but during its heyday is would produce enough to cater for up to 12,000 residents and guests!!!! Can you believe it- I think there are some seriously BIG pots and pans in there.
Liz and I then walked back past the beautiful Byzantine church of Haghia Eirene, in the grounds of Topkapi. Liz has sung in a choir in this church, they often have choirs performing there, I imagine the acoustics are incredible.


Another type of provincial dress from Iran.



Some of the traditional dress in the
 Iranian exhibition.

 We walked back past a tented exhibition from Iran, with the many differnt areas and people in national costume on display. There are some very beautiful areas there, but I certainly won't be visiting that area in a hurry!


Bad photo inside the cistern- you can get
the general idea. very tall columns.
 All underground, water dripping down and
 carp in the pools below.

 After seeing Topkapi (or at least the entrance to it) Liz wanted to show me inside the Basilica Cistern. She is a very keen photographer and wanted to get some shots inside the Cistern. It is a vast underground water cistern and was laid out in 532!! it is 65m x 143m and is supportedby 336 stone columns arranged in 12 rows. It once held 80,000 cubic metres of water- quite amazing. There are 2 stone heads of Medusa at the base of two of the columns. Each of the 336 columns is lit at the base and the ettect is absolutely stunning.


The head of Medusa at the base of one
of the huge columns in the Basilica Cistern.
 They are not sure why one was upside down
and the other one was side-ways.

 We took some photos, mine were extremely amatuerish, I am sure Liz's are far higher quality!


One of the thousands of dress shops
displaying  wedding dresses

 After catching the tram up to the top of the Grand Bazaar, we were to find that is is closed on Sunday's! Never mind, there were still plenty of little stalls open selling everything and everything.
You wanna buy a wedding dress????? I saw some real stunners, attached are a couple of photos!!! The Turks seem to love "the more TIZZ the better!!!!"


Bit of TIZZ for the bridesmaid!!

We wandered down through the small avenues to the Spice Bazaar which was open.  

Anyone for Turkish delight?

A vast collection of stalls, all undercover selling all sorts of spices, tea and Turkish delight. Liz and I couldn't resist buying some Turkish delight made with Honey and pistachio and another one made with pomegranate and pistachio- absolutely stunning and delicious- that's about the only sugar i am going to eat- Turkish delight- I'l try a different one next week when I go to look round the Grand Bazaar- 4000 shops!!!!!

Spices galore!! The smell is amazing!

Once through the Spice Bazaar, we wandered over to the wharf to smell the beautiful aroma of the "Fish Sandwich". A definite MUST when I go back. We didn't have one because we had not long eaten simit (sp)

The ornate boats on which the fish sandwiches
are cooked. They are moored at the dock.



Cooking the fish sandwiches. Served with lettuce
 and a sauce on a fresh bread roll.

 which is like a bagel and sold along the street by little stallholders. They're best with peynir (white cheese- feta) They are truly to die for- if you like bagels, these are 100 times better- delicious. Many people get one on the way to work for breakfast, and I now have one when I come across a stallholder, but he must have cheese!!
The wind was blowing a chilly blast, so we decided to head home across the Bosphorus, Liz pointed out the huge number of ships waiting out on the Marmara Sea for permission to sail through the Bosphorus. It is a very narrow strip of water that basically links the Aegean and Mediterranean to the Black Sea. Only one ship at a time can go up and one down. I am waiting for Georgie to visit in April when we will take a tour up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea for the day.

I arrived home, glad to be in the warmth, but anxious to visit the wonderful sites at length next time.